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AT A GLANCE The Old Courtyard Hotel does what it says on the tin, and more. (If this reference escapes you, don’t think the building is housed in a metal box, just be thankful you missed a catchy paint commercial on UK television).  It is both old – over 200 years, to be precise, built by the Portuguese when Cochin was their window to the spice trade; and it is centred around a cobbled courtyard, the heart of this delightful little hotel. But there’s more. On summer evenings, sitting around the tall old mango tree, soak up violin and flute music or clay pot drum rhythms played by local musicians. Swap stories with guests or with the well-travelled owners Rose and Jacob Kuruvinakunnel; or enjoy Continenal-style cooking - a refreshing alternative to endless curries. Follow the grand wooden staircase to the 8 guest rooms, varying in size but all charmingly decorated. Step outside and you have Jewish spice shops, Chinese fishing nets, a Dutch palace and India’s oldest church on your doorstep. And all for the price of a few tins of paint. HIGHS It’s an affordable, relaxed setting, as easy to be alone as to socialise. It’s centrally located, with plenty of attractions right outside the door. The live classical music in summer is enchanting. And the larger rooms are on a par with much more expensive hotels. LOWS The cheapest rooms are very small – but what do you expect for $15? There is no pool here – but hopefully you didn’t come to Cochin to swim. With only 8 rooms, you’ll need to book early in high season (November to March). |
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